Case study: High heels, a story of remarkable survival

As an osteopath, I encounter all sorts of injuries, from headaches to foot pain. Part of the process of helping someone involves determining the cause of their discomfort.

While some causes are weird and wonderful (like the 84-year-old with a sore hip and a new partner), they're usually regular parts of the person’s life, often seemingly insignificant, that turn out to be the culprits.

High heels are a perfect example, a staple of many wardrobes, and a boon for pain therapists worldwide.

But where did they originate? How did these beautiful, foot-binding, and limp-inducing shoes become so common? Unsure, I embarked on an internet-based adventure to find some answers.

Overlooking the butchers of ancient Egypt and the prostitutes of Ancient Rome, the fashion of heels as we know and love(?) were introduced to Europe from what we now consider the Middle East.

By the end of the 16th century, the Persian army was both feared and respected, and they were among the most flamboyantly dressed armies in history.

Imagine manicured beards, flowing robes, and velvet heels, like attendees of a medieval music festival.

Their greatest rivals were the Ottomans. To overcome them, the Persians sent diplomats to Europe in search of allies against their common enemy.

These diplomats, the crème de la crème in terms of dress, impressed their hosts at royal dinner parties across the continent with their grace, clothing, and decadent footwear. Needless to say, the Europeans were smitten.

These shoes weren't merely aesthetic; they also provided horse-riding warriors increased balance when standing in their stirrups, augmenting the force of their sword or bow swings.

Like today's celebrities, the aristocracy of the time drove fashion. As more nobles adopted the heeled look, the common folk followed suit.

However, it wasn't until the 1620s that women began appropriating men's fashions — cutting their hair short, smoking pipes, and wearing heels.

Heels proliferated. More commoners wore them. Women wore them. The aristocracy seeking to maintain their distinctiveness kept innovating and raising their heels.

Then came the French Revolution. Class-based systems were thrown out. The king was executed in 6-inch heels. Equality, liberty, fraternity!

Napoleon crowned himself in 1799. Seeking to tie his rule back to the principles of the revolution he did so in flat-heeled shoes (thereby consigning himself to history as short).

And just like that heels in Europe disappeared.

Only to reemerge in mid-19th-century pornography, now associated with petite feminine feet, contrasting with the flat, "ugly" feet of indentured workers and, frankly, black slaves.

Heels were once again on the rise in mainstream popularity, especially during the shortened hem, lengthened heel period of the 1920s.

However, the Great Depression brought about their decline as ostentatious displays of wealth became frowned upon or led to the wearers being robbed. Consequently, heels were shortened and squared off.

It took the post-World War II 1950s and the collaboration of movie stars with Christian Dior to restore their glamour.

Fast forward to 2011 when the Wall Street Journal reported that $38.5 billion was spent on high heels in the USA alone. I'd be curious to know how much pain therapists rake in from high-heel-related injuries.

Thus concludes the history of the high-heeled shoe as we know it. I wonder what the future holds for this icon of modern fashion.

NB I originally wrote this piece in 2015. Since then we’ve had the exercise-wear fashion revolution and heels have become less commonplace. Which has to be a good thing. But as this article shows, high heels have a habit of coming back as the wheel of time turns. Stay tuned.